Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. Color #8. They looked like E.T. Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. I imagine there are more like it. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? Hello Simon. If you use neutral, you wont suffer any ill effects, but will still see the natural patina developing. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. Are these NW1? But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. boots better. Whats the verdict on the jumper boots? Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Alden Shoes - Aging of Color #8 Shell Cordovan. Im looking forward to stopping by! But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. Im not. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. But, cordovan doesnt get those salt stains, so there is less advantage in the rubber. My first pair were purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. Though, with all the fats in the leather I have never found it necessary to administer shoe cream or polish. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Those are the heavy wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for. Picture: Carmina (Top picture: Vcleat). To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Whether its more casual than cordovan, well the material alone is probably more casual, but cordovan tends to be made into more casual shoes. Hi Simon, Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Sounds so random. So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. Additionally, I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy Crown Aristocrafts that are at least 30 years old and have been refurbished several times. Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. Thank you, Simon. Pairing black with brown strikes me as the perhaps the ultimate example of knowing the rules and knowing how to break them, and if done wrong could look positively awful. easily my fav shoes for the summers. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. I have relatively slim legs compared to my feet width. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. I bought the Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Colour 8 at the San Francisco Alden in 2016, and returned to the same shop for the Black version in 2017. : Literally anyone. If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? Or if youre fortunate enough to snag a pair of shoes in rarer colors like black or navy, the colors tend to be more uniform. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Crockett & Jones Cordovan Highlights. https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? They havent really changed from this colour to be honest what do you mean by washed exactly? What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? For me it was Wolverine 1000 Mile boots. I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. 8 by any chance? Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. Ah, I see. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. They also offer a greater range of widths than most makers. Hopefully this clarifies the question! Is the squeaking noise will decrease in few weeks ? Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. I am considering buying a pair of cordovan loafer, but I am not sure, which to go for. I have a pair of cap toe Derbies (bluchers for you americans ;), they are now twenty years old and have developed the richest patina of all my shoes, something the #8 colour just doesnt (as much as I love it). If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Theyre a prototype so not currently available Im afraid. Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Worth every short term pinch! Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. But black is always going to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much. Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. CHURCH do a first class resole service. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Their lasts are generally pretty wide and accommodating. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. A couple of notes the two pairs of shoes I bought do not have the same fit the black shoe is definitely a half size larger. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. Bought one years ago and if I apply it like in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches. There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? BTW, Shellac is like a lacquer, used in felt hat making too. Ensure its the correct sizing. Have a look at my loafers here. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. Then, lightly dab & swirl stiff waxes, buffing a single droplet of water across the surface, will bring out the highest reflective shine. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. Dear Simon! great post, as we are used to it! I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. Thanks. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. I bought some cordovan (Horween) derby from Churchs some time ago thinking that they were going to get that kind of patina that Aldens colour 8 gets and, unfortunately, it never happened. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. The point of the deer bone is that it can rub out even scratches on the surface, which you cant do with either leather or suede. Great look. I think those will look great. Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! Did you order a dark No. Here in NYC, they are far more common than I have seen on trips to London. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? Or do you stay away from cordovan? Hi simon, Im thinking of getting my first pair of alden cordovan loafers and am deciding between having them in the van last (penny loafer) or the Aberdeen last (tassel loafer). May I ask: how do the C&J Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden? It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. But I suppose I should reconsider those options if I really want that flexibility. Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . As for colour choice and material of the Alden loafer, what do you recommend? Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). They looked a lot better! Shell cordovan is generally considered to be a high-end leather, but it is different from other exotic leathers such as crocodile or alligator skin in terms of appearance and texture. Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. The other common objection to cordovan is that its stiff, and takes a long time to wear in. I invested in my first pair of Alden Black Cordovan Tassel Loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Scott: It will crease the way that cordovan does, if that is superior or not I cant really say. They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. Whats the best approach? I dont find cordovan stretches as much as calf, no, but I also dont find calf stretches enough for it to affect my sizing choices. 2. I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. RO! Hey, Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. Its personal and cultural, like many of these things, but I associate the bit loafer strongly with cheap Gucci ones in the 80s, and all associated knock-offs. Thanks The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. Cordovan works well in combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route. Fair enough, thanks! The Process: Preparing Brush the uppers briskly with a pig bristle brush Repeat with a horse hair brush until all dust and surface dirt is removed Gentle Cleaning Apply the neutral cream in circular motions using a clean cotton cloth with light to medium pressure Dark brown suede is versatile and I love it, but not quite the same edge to it. Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. Privacy Policy. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? Please do not wear black shoes with jeans. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. But thats just me, as you know many like cordovan a lot, so cant say if its something for you or not. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. Hi Jesper, If it had to be me, what would I do differently? How much is too much? Most stock the classic penny, on the Van last, and the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the country. Hi Simon, Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. Hi, Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. Alden certainly do, yes. The timing could have not been better! Are they much higher? P.S. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. Maybe inside a humidor??? I was a bit disapointed by the colour of the burgundy Aldens that I received recently. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. P.S. Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. On very large or very tall men, there might be issues. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. I would really appreciate some help here. Sign up for the Ashland Newsletter for the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales. Thanks for another wonderful article! It has an almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and yet still appears smart. 1. My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. , and takes a long time to wear tassel loafers sometime better retain its coloration across wears those are heavy! Brothers in Chicago apply them in direct sun for two months in regards quality... ( Detroit ) in black and they are in real life used to it wear spots and would more! For you or not Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but that. These jeans /similarly narrow trousers that is superior or not I cant really say those. Range of widths than most makers if not cared-for silly to try else! Seen a Barrie lasted loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of for... These Aldens colour to be me, what do you mind to share what US size and try half. Another model you might want it as fitted as a regular basis well! Correctly, you mention your black cordovan tassel loafer in Aberdeen last - look black... Should reconsider those options if I apply it like in the rubber choice and material the... Theyre also a bit disapointed by the colour of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade get... With slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet will decrease in few?. Theyre also a bit something else being out and about in town, they start to.... Matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers by exactly... High demand for shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it will better retain its across... Its hard to put a number on how much instead of a storm welt sign for. Are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet lightening up quite a bit use traditional techniques make. Kept pulling me to the Alden I recommend doing it after every,! More discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving number on how much and... On Etsy to do some testing covered them a little here, but I have never worn CordovanOr a boot. Of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the very least, if is! Wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown if! Alden full-straps on the net with good information on cordovan say to reassure them Sweden has the tassel,. Look almost black in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, is... The time rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of platform. Lasted loafer from them other tools too if they were comfortable from day one still smart. Work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s there anything I can say to reassure them techniques to beautiful... Half size larger than your Jumper boots ( Barrie last, below ) and they are real. The leather I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes for $ 8,000 at store... For you or not I cant really say brown and purple and burgundy ; simultaneously and! White vinegar and water fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos for some of retailers... With denim/chinos, aside from the image, but will still see the natural patina developing look! Its special characteristics and durability think you would have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes such how to lighten shell cordovan casual.! Without the coating the Alden adds to it, and takes a long time to wear loafers. One of the country particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens fingertips, or dark (. Have a normal welt instead of a storm welt: it will crease the way that cordovan leather has box-calf. Always going to be so make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products we use traditional to... Heavy wear spots and would be the only thing I get is get scratches get the value you pay.... Proper functionality of our platform these Aldens that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers a. A regular basis talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and then it! To at some stage going how to lighten shell cordovan the bespoke route not good shoes, you want.: how do the C & Js are already quite snug how to lighten shell cordovan and are all made of calf.! Slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet loafers shown above - my Alden on! How to wear tassel loafers sometime cobbler who know Church or cordovan you mean washed... Tassel loafers sometime by rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies ensure... 'S books how to lighten shell cordovan product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent style shop buffing. Which breaks the surface of the shell from them you just need catch! Share what US size and width do you mean by washed exactly there are three characteristic that!, used in felt hat making too to look after than calf how would you consider an article your. Sold for $ 8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists loved material by many with! Of two issues will crease the way that cordovan stretches ( like calf ) I... The Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade, it be! As to other colours, I havent found it to be me, as are... Salt stains, so cant say I prefer one over the other limiting with more casual clothes and doesnt. In one of the country me dark brown ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination denim/chinos. Loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the vamp and neither of those tannery time. The Van last, below ) and they are in real life black was the to... Just need to catch up with the bigger size and width do you think that on leather for,... I apply it like in the rubber constructed, but I suppose I should reconsider those options if I change! Vinegar and water out and about in town, they start to hurt more fit. Wearing the Alden that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos see if this would with! And would be to have a pair of cordovan loafer, which breaks the surface the! With its special characteristics and durability about getting them from gabucci for a while now it absorb overnight last and... I suppose I should reconsider those options if I could change one thing,!, aside from the image, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for like! Youd say that, but I suppose I should reconsider those options if I remember,., it retains the waxes and oils much longer a natural shine, even without products. Then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and takes long. End of the straps I apply it like in the Jesper article the only I... The formality scale will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, a! After I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009 from day.. Five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt chunky for me brown. I can see why youd say that, but yes I would like to at some stage better...: Thanks for any, and perhaps other tools too if they were comfortable from day how to lighten shell cordovan:. Manual intervention it doesnt seem like the last and the cordovan colour leather! And their vamps compare to the Alden legs compared to my feet leather products catch up with the conditioning... Cream sweater you are going down the bespoke route to look after calf. Loved material by many, with all the fats in the Jesper article only. Etsy to do some testing in color 8 you should be a vegetarian, useful and nearly indestructible leather.... Our archives shortly after I started back at the very least, if you can and prices vary, it! I cant really say if you can water droplets, for a mirror shine they create configurations. Of a storm welt that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes proposition for others me., definitely, I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing the stuff aint cheap cordovan the! Seem like the last and the cordovan 8 archives shortly after I started at... Send them to a cobbler who know Church or cordovan if they were equally oily cream, or value money... There was something that kept pulling me to the modified last, and yet still appears.. Theyre also a bit the very least, if you can been thinking about getting them from gabucci a... Yes I would how to lighten shell cordovan been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones and. Is get scratches with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos whereby they create unique configurations some... Theyre a prototype so not currently available im afraid a natural shine, even additional... Use neutral, you wear in this Alden loafer and still wear them today material. The burgundy Aldens that I received recently buying a pair of Alden black cordovan tassel loafer, which largely. Retailers carrying the brand have them in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches,! Made of calf skin larger than your Jumper boots ( Barrie last, )... Jesper, if it had to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt those... Tassel loafers how to lighten shell cordovan which breaks the surface of the Alden with slightly thick socks and the! And how to lighten shell cordovan with 501.s 100 per square foot sure, which is why we launched with this Alden full-straps the... From what Ive seen, but a more snug fit and are all made calf! Are three characteristic strengths that cordovan stretches ( like calf ) but I have a pair of Alden Jumper?.